Walking through the cobbled streets of the neighbourhood of San Telmo is like travelling back in time. Considered the bohemian heart of Buenos Aires, the barrio is steeped in history and is adorned with colonial mansions and eclectic street art. A visit to San Telmo is obligatory for travellers visiting the Argentine capital, to see this special place with its particular and peculiar beauty. San Telmo is the smallest district of the city, but despite its size, it offers a broad range of activities, bars, museums and cafés for tourists and locals in Buenos Aires. The famous San Telmo Market takes place every Sunday and is the main attraction drawing tourists from around the world. But there are plenty more reasons to visit. This Guide to San Telmo will introduce to some of the most interesting (and delicious) attractions and landmarks to help you enjoy one of the oldest neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires.

What to see and do in San Telmo:

Enjoy the architecture on Avenida Caseros

Make the most of a sunny morning by taking a stroll down Avenida Caseros. Between Defensa and Bolívar streets, you’ll find impressive old mansions which tell a story of the city’s past. The street is quiet with little traffic, there are many restaurants and cafés to enjoy. One highlight is Hierba Buena. With tempting breakfast options, it’s the perfect place to start your day before continuing your tour of San Telmo. Hierba Buena offers a varied menu with natural and organic options. Ask for brunch and indulge in homemade bread and jams. [caption id="attachment_6482" align="aligncenter" width="610"]Looking up at the architecture of colonial mansions on Avenida Caseros See San Telmo's beautiful architecture on Avenida Caseros / Photo: Daytours4u[/caption]

Be inspired by Argentine art

San Telmo is an important cultural and artistic centre in the city. It houses cultural centres, museums, galleries, artists’ studios, workshops and art shops. Some of the many museums include:
  • Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires (MAMBA): This Modern Art Museum has a collection of around 6,000 pieces of Argentine art from the 20s to the present. Address: Av. San Juan 350.
  • Museo del Cine: The Museum of Cinema has over 1,200 films from 1896 to the present. It has an exhibition with items related to Argentina’s film evolution, including the first cameras, projectors, costumes, scripts and recordings used. Address: Defensa 1220.
  • Museo de Arte Contemporaneo (MACBA): The Museum of Contemporary Art is located next to MAMBA and is the city’s newest art museum (opened in 2012). The permanent exhibition presents a collection of geometric and abstract art. Address: Av. San Juan 328.
Besides the spaces exclusively dedicated to art, San Telmo is also known for its Street Art. Graffiti decorates many streets, making this corner of the city fascinating to explore for anyone interested in art.

Shop for souvenirs and antiques at the San Telmo Market

The famous San Telmo Market (or the Feria de San Telmo) is a must-see attraction in the neighbourhood. The market takes place on Sundays from 10am to 5pm, and is on Defensa street, stretching 15 blocks from Plaza de Mayo to Plaza Dorrego. The street is lined with crafts stands and antique shops. You can find a wide variety of artisanal products and crafts from Argentina, and is a great place to pick up souvenirs. Among the dozens of carefully handcrafted items, there are also vendors wandering the street with baskets stuffed with delicious artisan bread. On the main corners, local bands entertain the crowds with live music to create a lively Sunday atmosphere. [caption id="attachment_6483" align="aligncenter" width="610"]Looking down Defensa street at the San Telmo Market Defensa street turns into one of the city's best markets on Sundays / Photo: Daytours4u[/caption]

Pop into the Mercado de San Telmo

After walking up Defensa on a Sunday from Plaza de Mayo, as you near Plaza Dorrego, you can’t miss the large Mercado de San Telmo. This daily indoor market is located on the main street of the fair and contains everything from retro and vintage accessories from the 60s and 70s to a wide variety of fruits, vegetables, cheeses and meats. But the market is not only for a shopping trip. It’s also home to the best cappuccinos in the capital, at Coffee Town. This kiosk is located in the heart of the market. Don’t let the simple setting fool you. It has a great range of coffee from different countries and is worth waiting for a free table. While you’re here, don’t miss the opportunity to taste one of Argentina’s culinary staples: the Chorípan. The concept is simple: chori (chorizo - sausage) + pan (bread), sometimes adorned with lettuce and tomato or some kind of salsa. Of course, the one must with a chorípan is chimichurri, a sauce made from herbs and spices. To taste one, exit the market on Carlos Calvo street, head straight to Lo de Freddy, and ask for a Chorípan with a cold beer. Alternatively, book a gastronomic tour of the area to taste this and other Argentine delights.

Experience the Nightlife in San Telmo:

There's a reason that San Telmo is considered the trendy, bohemian neighbourhood of Buenos Aires. The area is full of bars and pubs to suit every style and taste, with many delicacies to nibble while sipping a drink of a local craft beer. A night out in nostalgic San Telmo is sure to be a highlight of your trip.

Drink at traditional bars in San Telmo

For an authentically Argentine experience in Buenos Aires, go to El Federal, located in the heart of San Telmo. It is one of the oldest operating bars in the city, open since 1849. On the menu is a variety of typical foods, including a tasting menu called “Argentina in 6 steps.” Ask for a Fernet and Coke to try one of the most popular drinks in Argentina. If the 50s inspire you, head to the bar El Hipopotamo. The interior is decorated with old advertisements on the walls and salami hanging from the ceiling. During the day, you can enjoy a traditional Argentine breakfast, or a merienda (tea time) in the afternoon with coffee and facturas (pastries).

Sample exotic meat and Latin food

If you’re looking for an out-of-the-ordinary meat fest, head to the restaurant/bar El Refuerzo. Rather than plain steak, here you can order wild boar, rabbit, lamb and more on the constantly changing menu. The homemade pasta here is also fantastic. A good tip is to start with a craft beer and a board of cold meats and cheeses. [caption id="attachment_6484" align="aligncenter" width="610"]The warm interior of Mercadito Latino Sample food from all over Latin America at Mercadito Latino / Photo: Daytours4u[/caption] If you want a sample of some of Latin America’s best dishes, all in one place, try Mercadito Latino. This restaurant offers a variety of tasty food from all over the region, including Colombia, Brazil, Venezuela and Mexico.

The perfect evening combo: Dinner + Tango Show

You can’t come to the neighbourhood of San Telmo and not experience tango. El Viejo Almacen is a traditional tango house steeped in the history of the barrio. It offers an intimate environment to enjoy a 3-course dinner (starter, main course and dessert), followed by an authentic tango show.  For those looking for a more romantic experience, head to La Ventana, another tango house in San Telmo. Here you can enjoy lessons before your dinner to get into the passionate mood of tango. Follow it up with dinner and a spectacular show. [caption id="attachment_6485" align="aligncenter" width="610"]The band on stage at El Viejo Almacen tango show Enjoy a traditional tango show in an authentic neighbourhood / Photo: Daytours4u[/caption] As you can see, there is an almost endless list of things to do in San Telmo, and we haven’t even scratched the surface! There is something for everyone in this historic and beautiful neighbourhood in Buenos Aires. Add San Telmo to your Buenos Aires itinerary to experience this antique and artistic side of the city for yourself.

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By: Luiza Cavalcante | Adapted by: Nicole Eberhard