Capilla del Monte and San Marcos Sierras: Two ecological and alternative destinations in Córdoba

The Province of Córdoba with its powerful rivers and streams, its green mountain ranges, its relaxed villages and the kindness and sense of humor of its people, represents, without a doubt, an unmissable destination in a travel itinerary through Argentina. The towns of Capilla del Monte and San Marcos Sierras, located at the northern end of the Punilla Valley and at a distance of 45 kilometers from each other, are two alternative and ecological destinations to visit in the province, highly recommended for those travelers who want to disconnect from the routine and urban chaos to enter a journey between mountain ranges and streams, rivers and spas, experiencing nature everywhere.

The Province of Córdoba represents an unmissable destination in a travel itinerary through Argentina / Photo: Randal Sheppard

Capilla del Monte, mystery and nature

Capilla del Monte is 109 km from the city of Cordoba and is a destination to visit year round. Its main attraction is Uritorco Peak, which at 1,979 meters above sea level has the highest elevation of the Sierras Chicas and is visited by Argentines and foreigners not only for its natural beauty and its incredible panoramic views that can be seen from the top, but also because it is considered one of the most important places of energy in the world.

This mystic hill is surrounded by hundreds of stories and legends about the supposed appearance of extraterrestrial flying objects in its skies. Its access is 3 kilometers from the center of the city and it is traveled in average time between 7 total hours between ascent and descent. It is a walk that anyone can do, but you must bear in mind that it is somewhat demanding especially in some sections. While during the day it is not necessary to hire a guide, during the night it is not possible to carry out any type of activity without the assistance of a trained professional, so the Cerro Uritorco Complex offers special guides for night excursions.

Uritorco Peak is considered one of the most important places of energy in the world / Photo: Gilda Selis

A less demanding option is to reach El Zapato, just 1 kilometer from Plaza San Martín, which represents a natural sculpture originated by the erosion of the years, which gave this rock a very recognizable shoe shape. In addition, it offers a surprising view of the El Cajón lake and the hills of the region.

In Capilla del Monte many travelers arrive in search of adventure tourism. Activities such as hiking, 4x4 trips, and guided horseback riding are some of the possibilities. In Las Gemelas Mountain, for example, there are excursions to the summit, horseback riding, mountain biking, and even paragliding.

In Capilla del Monte many travelers arrive in search of adventure tourism / Photo: Juan Montiel

For those who travel during the summer, the city offers many water courses to cool off. The closest site is the municipal spa, with pools of spring water, and La Toma, crossed by the river Calabalumba with waterfalls surrounded by broken red and natural pottery. You can also visit El Cajón dam, two kilometers away, and the highest level in the province, Los Alazanes.

And when the afternoon comes, it is recommended to take an urban tour that includes a visit to the Handicrafts Fair, located in the main square, and another to the San Antonio de Padua parish, built in the same place where several centuries ago a chapel gave rise to the name of the town. You can not miss a walk on the famous roofed street, the first built in Latin America in 1964 where there is a large commercial and gastronomic offer and where every February is celebrated, the Alien Festival with musical shows, costume contests, and parades.

San Marcos Sierras, the idiosyncrasy of not having

In San Marcos Sierras the locals take pride in not having smog that pollutes their air or neon signs that cloud their sight / Photo: Víctor Meneces Bustillo

San Marcos Sierras, located northwest of the Province of Córdoba in the Department of Cruz del Eje, is a place characterized by its tranquility and its natural environment composed of a valley surrounded by mountains and two rivers: the San Marcos and the Quilpo river that surround the town. Here there are no clocks. Or rather, time is used differently. For example, there are no delivery services or shopping because its inhabitants have time to cook their own food with tasty, healthy and homemade recipes and set aside hours to sew and embroider the clothes that they then sell at the Artisan Fair.

Here you experience the idiosyncrasy of a people that boasts the pride of not having. The locals take pride in not having smog that pollutes their air or neon signs that cloud their sight. They also do not have buildings that obscure the mountain landscape or the latest model of car because everyone can walk calmly on the dirt roads, even horses and donkeys pass through the town.

In San Marcos Sierras there are no factory noises or honking, but you can hear the birds singing. There are no zoos either because in the mountains and in the tunnels of centenary trees, the hundreds of species of animals are at liberty. In addition, not being affected by light pollution, the town is an ideal place to contemplate the clear sky at night.

In San Marcos Sierras you can hear the birds singing and it is an ideal place to contemplate the clear sky at night / Photo: Ingrid Rodríguez

In recent years many new inhabitants, fleeing from the routine and chaos of the big cities, were arriving in San Marcos looking for a radical change in their lives and, slowly, they were imposing their codes and their particular philosophy. Today it stands out regionally for its honey production. In fact, it was named "The capital of honey" in the Province of Córdoba. Do not forget to try this hand produced product that is sold at the Artisans Fair, in front of the Cacique Tulián square, where musical performances are also held. We also recommend a visit to the Chapel made with stone and adobe walls that were built between 1671 and 1734 by the Jesuits.

To get a panoramic view of the town and the Valley, we recommend climbing to Cerro de la Cruz Mountain during sunrise or sunset, on a slight 20-minute walk up to the natural lookout. And for summer days, it is best to cool off in the San Marcos river that runs through the town and can be walked on foot through the Quebrada or reach the Quilpo River, 4 kilometers from the town, which is characterized by its crystal clear waters that run between stones and sand. There you can choose between shallow spots and great beaches, suitable for children, and deeper places to swim. And continuing along this road you will reach the Vado de López, ideal for spending a whole day while enjoying the water of the Quilpo River, its tranquility and purity, in a place where rest and life without constraints are imposed.

To bear in mind

- Getting there: From Buenos Aires (Aeroparque) there are flights to the city of Córdoba Capital with 2 hours of travel. From there you can travel by bus, with the companies Grupo Sarmiento and Ersa. Another option is to go by car and take the E-53 route, continue along the Camino del Cuadrado and continue along the RN 38 to Capilla del Monte.

From there, there are two ways to get to San Marcos: one by a picturesque 22-kilometer gravel road that winds alongside Capilla del Monte’s dike and the other, faster but without much adventure, that is to travel the main route that leaves from Capilla del Monte on the way to Cruz del Eje and that in a matter of 20 kilometers brings you to San Marcos.

- During the summer or on long holidays the accommodation capacity of San Marcos Sierras runs out quickly, so it is advisable to consult previously in Capilla del Monte if there is not a place to stay.

- To climb the Cerro Uritorco mountain wear comfortable shoes, a hat, 2 liters of water, sunscreen, energy foods (nuts, cereal bars, raisins, etc.) a bag to bring the waste from the hill and a windbreaker shelter in order to be able to enjoy the top without being cold.

- In restaurants, it is recommended to try the roasted goat and the trout with garnish, two typical dishes of the area.

Discover one of the most beautiful provinces in Argentina with the best tours and activities in Cordoba.

Written by: Gilda Selis, journalist specializing in travel. Author of the blog Mi Bitácora de Viajes and the book En Movimiento, geografía interna de una chica que viaja de acá para allá.